First day of walking. Weather forecast looks good. I know what needs to be done now. 25 kilometres are between me and my first real pilgrim hostel that I’ve set my eyes on and which will close it’s doors at 18.00hrs. Time to take my first steps towards Santiago.
I wasn’t really expecting to get wet again today but I haven’t even left the hostel yet and I am already wet. This time it’s not because of the rain but it’s sweat. I am having a bit of pre-walk stress while packing my stuff into my backpack and in combination with all of yesterday’s humidity, which has also penetrated the hostel quarters, this is causing me to break sweat already. My backpack is already quite full and I still need to stash some additional things together with the food I bought yesterday in there. I already regret having brought so many things. “Look at that amateur pilgrim with his oversized bag” I already imagine other pilgrims saying. I tell myself to stay calm and focus on getting everything packed.
Ten minutes later everything is nicely stashed into my 48 liter backpack and I close the hostel door behind me, happy to be outside in the open air and away from the humidity of the hostel. I start walking to the Douro river which will be my guideline out of the city. I decided to first follow the Coastal route which is a bit less frequented but supposedly a much more enjoyable way out of the city.
I left the hostel with my jacket in my hands because it did not know what outside temperatures would be like. When I arrive at the river bank I decide that it’s not warm enough to walk without a jacket and put it on. I also shoot some pictures. Rainy Porto already looked nice and experiencing the city with some rays of sunlight makes it even more enjoyable. Then I see a classic tram across the road. When I look at the sign on the tram I see that it says; 1. Passeio Alegre, which means as much as happy ride. I take it as a good sign for my first day of walking and that it will turn out to be a happy experience.
Over an hour later I arrive at the point where the Rio Douro meets the ocean. I see big waves smashing onto the man made barriers separating the sea and the river. It looks impressive and somewhat scary. I wonder for a short bit if I will have to be walking in high winds a big part of the day but once I am walking along the coast I notice that the announce happy walk continues. The big waves just seem to be a remainder of the yesterday’s climate and actually form quite a nice spectacle during the rest of the day.
During my first hour of walking I was already spotted in my pilgrim role. A woman walking in opposite direction asks me if I am walking to Santiago and somewhat startled I respond her that that is the case but that I’m only just getting started. She tells me that she walked to Santiago once herself and asks how far it still is to the city centre, a question which I can easily answer since I just came from there and I’ve only just walked 3 kilometres or so. She wishes me a “Bom Caminho” which is probably going to be a first of many.
During my walk along the coast I only spot two other pilgrims but it never comes to a pilgrim-to-pilgrim encounter. So I just concentrate on putting one foot before the other and not rushing since I have all the time in the world. Large part of the way goes across wooden boardwalks which stretch out all along the coast. It feels as a nice underground to walk on opposed to the hard sidewalk which led me out of the city. I feel the pressure of my backpack pushing down on my feet. After 20km I really start to feel them but after relaxing a bit on the beach I have no problem in continuing again.
Besides from that the sky is also looking somewhat daunting. Some rain has been announced and it would be nice if I can reach the hostel before rain comes crashing down again. But I am not in luck. 20 minutes later I have to hide at a bus stop along the road to put on my rain jacket and the rain trousers that I had bought yesterday. They already prove to be a usefull investment. 10 minutes later the worst part of the rain is already over again and the sun is peeking through the clouds providing quite a magic image.
Half an hour later, at about 4 in the afternoon, I arrive at the hostel where I am awaited by Carla, the hostel concierge and a young playful kitten whom obviously bears the name Santiago. All in all it was a nice first walk during which I walked more than I had initially imagined, but my body held up OK. Unavoidedly I felt some small pains at some part during the day but those sensations came and went. Did the walk live up to the description as stated by the tram at the beginning of the day? I wouldn’t call it happy, but then again, that is not what we are looking for here, are we.
3 responses to “Day 1 – Getting started: Porto – Labruge”
Hoi Martin, a nice story you told about your foottrip allong the coast. And the photo you posted you look satisfied on it. That’s good to see! I wish I was there with you. 18 days of just walking and enjoying the surrounding, what does a man/woman needs more.
Much happingness and I love the photo’s you posyed! Muchos besos!
Sounds very exciting and I look forward to your updates along the way. Best of luck on your trip & take good care, Martin!
Thank you Daniel. I will try and post every day. Not sure if I will be able to keep that up. You know how much time sometimes goes in maintaining a website.